Mary in the Town of the Seven Moons
The original and essential motif of the main altarpiece in the church at Ucu is the Maternity of the Virgin Mary.
Dr. Fernando Garcés Fierros, expert in sacred art, considers that the high altar of the church is outstanding not only for its beauty, but also for its antiquity, dating as it does from the 17th century (around 1680).
Particularly notable features of the reredos are the perfect columns, a relief carving of the Holy Trinity in a vernacular style at the top, the fine quality of the decorative carving, and the unusual “atlas” angels on the predella, or lower section, so-called because the appear to be holding up the entire carved structure.
“It is one of the most beautiful altarpieces in Yucatan,” notes Garcés Fierros, “and a major example of splendid Yucatecan Solomonic Baroque”.
Although during the vice-regal period, the church at Ucu was dependent on the parish of Santiago in Merida, and dedicated to St. Louis of Toulouse, the patron saint is now the Virgin of the Nativity, or simply the Virgin of Ucu.
In his description, Garcés Fierros emphasizes that the altarpiece is of great artistic quality, despite having lost its veneer of 24-karat gold, “which reflected the fervor and devotion of the faithful to their images.”
Over 80 years ago, during the first half of the 20th century, the piece was painted blue to give it a more austere look, in keeping with the tastes of the time.
Six paintings that should have adorned the altarpiece have also been lost, but the statue of the original patron, St. Louis of Toulouse survives, as does that of the current patron, whom the faithful of Ucu celebrate every 8th of September, as marked in the General Roman Calendar.
In December 1999, specialists from the Yucatan INAH Center began a year-long restoration of the precious carving, and complemented the iconography of the reredos with six new paintings by the Yucatecan artist Suemy Vallado Negroe.
Four of the oil paintings show scenes from the Nativity: The Annunciation, The Betrothal, The Adoration of the Shepherds and the Visit of the Magi. The other two, which are smaller, each portray two of the Evangelists, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John.
The devotion to Our Lady of the Nativity among the town’s faithful is such that they pay tribute to her during the whole month of May, beginning with her “descent” on the first of the month.
The reredos at Ucu is another example of the skill with which secular churches in Yucatan were decorated, not only in the cities, but also in small communities.
The etymology of Ucu, head of the municipality of the same name since 1925, may come from an alteration of ukum, a pigeon or dove, one of the most common birds in the region. Another interpretation is that it means “seven moons”, from uk, the number seven, and uj, moon.
The church of the Our Lady of the Nativity is these days a visiting chapel belonging to the parish of Our Lady of Bethlehem in Caucel, part of the municipality of Merida, five km (three miles) south-east of Ucu.
In order to view the main altarpiece of the church, it is necessary to consult the days and times when the church is open for services.
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