An exceptional altarpiece
The municipality of Ixil, located 45 kilometers (28 miles) northeast of Merida, is famous for its beaches, its eponymous shallots, its colonial relics and the copy of the Chilam Balam – an 18th-century Maya treatise dealing with herbal medicine, astronomy and astrology – that bears its name.
The name has two possible meanings: Su nombre podría tener dos significados: “place where everything is ruffled” or “Ix’s place”, from Ix, ruffled or raised, and also a Mayan surname, and –il, “belonging or related to”.
In the center of the municipal seat stands the church of St. Barnabas. It was constructed in the 17th century, one of the earliest to be built on the coast, and constitutes a splendid example of Peninsular colonial architecture. Moreover, the chancel holds another treasure: the main altarpiece of the Transfigured Christ, whose characteristics make it a unique piece of Yucatan’s cultural heritage.
The wooden altarpiece, made by an anonymous craftsman, dates from the 17th century and measures three and a half by six meters (11 ft x 20 ft). It has two levels, and a single vertical division. It does not completely fill the chancel wall, so to the sides are two semi-cylindrical niches with grooved quarter-spheres at the top, occupied by statues of Sts. Peter and Paul. To the sides and above the altarpiece, the wall is covered by a mural which integrates smoothly with the sculpted piece.
The base is of plain masonry. The predella has a simple architrave and cornice, and the frieze is divided into squares which frame rosettes. In the centre is the tabernacle, framed in gold and flanked by small columns similar to those on the main body of the altarpiece. The pedestals of the columns are shaped like corbels, but with small Atlas figures.
In the center of the lower level there is a niche set into the wall, with a gilded frame round a segmental arch with cherubim in the spandrels. It is occupied by the Transfigured Christ, a fair-sized statue of a black Christ on the Cross, which is highly revered by the community. To each side are a pair of staggered Solomonic columns. Their shafts are decorated with grapevines, and they have Corinthian capitals. To the sides of the main body there are rectangular wings, also decorated with grapevines.
The architrave and frieze of the entablature are shortened. In the central section the framing of the niche below leaves only the projecting portion of the columns, which have a simple architrave. The frieze is decorated in relief and the serrated cornice is shifted forward at the ends, and has small corbels in its middle section.
The upper level has fleurons at the corners, above the inner columns of the lower level. This level too has columns, although only one on each side and shorter than those of the lower level. Outside the columns are fairly narrow semi-circular wings, decorated with grapevines.
As on the lower level, in the center there is a frame with a segmented arch, above which is an entablature identical to the lower one. The projections are crowned with fleurons, also similar to those below. The central niche used to house a statue of St. Barnabas, but at present it is empty. The altarpiece is missing its gable.
According to art expert Fernando Garcés Fierros, the mural on the wall around it makes this altarpiece unique in the Peninsula.
The church of St. Barnabas in Ixil can be visited every day of the week, during the times of religious services.
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